“Ecstasy – the feeling one salvages, when an act of laziness unfolds into a melodramatic experience.”
I was in for such an experience, when my lazy attempt to photograph stars on a cloudy night, turned into a string of events that looped me into the past. My destination was Antharagange, near Kolar. Situated around 70 Kms from Bangalore, it can be an ideal getaway for a day’s ride.
Antharagange is famous for the temple situated in the mountains, which literally means “Ganges from the deep”. Also the temple houses a pond that gets continuous flow of water from the mouth of Basava (bull idol). The temple can be easily reached by a fleet of stone steps. The view from the top of the mountain is majestic and is always a trekker’s delight. One can either trek through the rocky terrain exploring caves on the way or easily reach the top by a motorable road.
Antharagange, usually portrayed as an adventure spot on the Internet and by various sporting groups was about to throw a surprise for me. I had planned to visit the place during night time. As I reached there, the sun was colouring the sky with its last shades of orange and the crowded pilgrim / tourist spot was getting deserted. The mountainous landscape peppered with boulders was getting lost in the darkness.
A little tip from a local helped me find the road to the top of the mountains. Soon, I was passing by villages, dilapidated buildings, mud walled huts and a mosque before the tarmac ended bluntly. I was amidst hillocks covered with volcanic rocks and an uninteresting landscape that would set up for a dull scene.
On my way back, I found a rusted iron mast among precariously perched rocks overlooking the town below. Instantly I knew it was not to be missed. With a sudden surge of enthusiasm, I set up my gear on one of the larger boulders. But the clouds played the spoilsport, covering up the night sky along with my sprouting zeal for star photography.
Hovering on the unfortunate turn of events, I lurked to the edge of the rock staring blindly at the infinite horizon. Minutes passed, before my eyes could shift the focus from the horizon to the town below. A brush of cold wave brings me back to my senses.
Suddenly the placed that showed any hint of excitement started to light up. As the street lights sparkled to life at the town below, I realize that I am at the perfect viewpoint that the place could offer. A haze of gold brightens the horizon and the twinkling yellow spots illuminate the whole place like an ornament bejewelled with precious stones. It brings an unsolicited smile on my face as my thoughts race back in time. The sight makes me wonder if the shut down gold fields of Kolar come up to life at night. It bewitches my mind and takes me on a journey into the past.
I see before me a town that had prospered in the past and the magnificence when the mines were in their heydays, when Kolar Gold Fields (KGF) was regarded as the largest gold production centre in Asia. The days when the mines attracted workers from all parts of the country.
I could not stop myself from visualizing the town buzzing with activity and had prosperity as its only face. The centuries that have passed, when a battle was fought more than once to lay hands on the reserves. The days when the precious metal was purified by blood and sweat. The times of despair and suffering that followed as epidemics spread through the town and the last the days of redemption that put an end to all the glory and despair as the mining came to a halt. With over a decade after the operations ceased, I see a town revelling in its past with its glory fading in the present.
Forgotten will be the land and its history over the next few decades. Buried will be all its glory along with it. The thought of it sends a shiver down the spine and breaks me from the spell. With little time left, I click some quick snaps and pack up with my thoughts still lingering over.
I wish that someday, the land of fading glory will bloom again with its deep held secrets to marvel and mesmerize generations forever.
QUICK TIPS:
- Kolar is an hour’s drive from Bangalore (70 Km apprx.)
- Head left from Pallavi Theatre to reach Antharagange.
- To take the road uphill, reach out to the locals for directions to the ‘Betta’.
- On a day trip, you can visit the Antharagange temple.
- If you are an adventure seeker, never miss out to do some rock climbing from the temple to the top of the mountain.
- On a night trip, you can go ahead to do some cave exploration activities.
- Often hit by adventure seekers, this place is becoming a victim of environmental pollution. Travellers and fun seekers must maintain the sanctity of the temple and guard the surrounding environment.
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