Commercialization has killed the virgin spirit of the Western Ghats in Kerala. This is probably the reason why those looking to be one with nature are opting to stay at Devikulam, surrounded by lush green forests and tea estates. On the sides of the lonely road, I see new constructions, encroachments and rampant deforestation. “Ten years from now, we will see a desert among these hills,” says my host Sivaswamy, whose grandparents migrated to Devikulam from Bodi in Tamil Nadu some 70 years ago.
I sense the pain in his voice. When I visited Munnar around two decades ago, the only constructions I saw were the shacks used as shops in the town and the tin-roofed barracks, offices and guesthouses of the tea company. Now, there are at least 3,000 high-end and budget tourist hotels and resorts in Munnar. Ironically, the United Nations has listed the place as one of the 34 most fragile biodiversity spots in the world which is nestled among the Western Ghats, one of the eight most sensitive rainforests on this planet. Commercialisation has killed the virgin spirit of the land.
Set at an altitude of 1,800 m, Devikulam — the spice town straddling the border between Kerala and Tamil Nadu — never ceases to thrill me; it is different every time. Its name has been derived from two Malayalam words, devi and kulam, which mean goddess and pond respectively. Some say Sita had washed her feet here when she was being taken back to Ayodhya from Lanka by Lord Rama. Others believe she bathed in this natural spring. However, the consensual belief is that Sita did come here. I have heard even foreign tourists, who know nothing about these stories, saying they felt the hills were enchanted. That there is a positive, mysterious energy around. I’m not sure whether I have felt the same but I’m sure this place has always mesmerised me. The serene waters of the lake are pure round the year and locals say no pollutant can ever spoil it.
Sivaswamy, a materialist to the core, does not believe in either of the stories about Sita but tells me that even the wildest of monsoon rains do not muddy these waters. It is enriched by the capillaries that ooze down from the inners of the mighty rocks of Devimala, the imposing hillock where Sita is believed to have rested on her journey back from Lanka. The lake is surrounded by sparsely vegetated slopes and carpet of hunch-backed tea bushes.
Earlier people would go fishing in these waters, but Sivaswamy tells me that restrictions had been placed on this now. The lake itself is huge, running hither thither in ridges and coves, its wide tentacles spreading through the valley. You can always find hundreds of travellers sitting by its shore, struck by the awesome beauty of Devimala and contemplating the serenity of the waters whose ripples create soothing soft whispers on the rocky hillsides.
The air suddenly grows thicker, the feeble sun disappears and darkness descends in the valley. It is a different world in a matter of minutes and it begins to pour. As the first few raindrops fall on my face, they seem like chilling glass needles poking me. But I am willing to get drenched and wait for them to become beady plops and finally, overwhelming showers. The tea-pickers disappear in the bushes all of a sudden and Sivaswamy tells me they would be cursing the rain. I, on the other hand, thank Sita for blessing me with this heavenly experience.
It all ends in a quarter of an hour, leaving me thoroughly drenched and the surrounds all refreshed. The trees look a shade greener, the bushes flare out to air themselves and the parched earth reddens, spreading its aroma of goodness.
Devikulam is a small town. In fact, the word town does not fit it in any way. The population is not much but there are a lot of activities, thanks to the booming tourism business. The merchandise is not many because shoppers are mainly the tea estate workers whose needs are limited to just essential commodities. There are some spice and curio shops that cling to the hope of attracting the ‘sahibs’ from the West but the foreign travellers have grown wiser and prefer to shop at Kumili. I do not mind the lack of shopping avenues as I have come here to soak in nature and the place is far cleaner than most tourist spots I have seen in the country.
Unlike me, most visitors to this region prefer to choose Munnar as their base and correctly so. Almost all the places of a traveller’s interest are easily accessible from there. These include the Atukkad Falls, a scenic waterfall amid hills and jungles; Chithirapuram that has old playgrounds, courts, bungalows and little cottages which give it the aura of a quaint world; Photo Point, a wooded hideaway with a stream and photographers; Mattupetti Dam, a popular picnic spot preferred by travellers for its boating and horse-riding opportunities and Echo Point known for the magical experience of hearing yourself loud and clear.
However, the greatest attraction in the region as far as nature lovers are concerned is the Eravikulam National Park at Rajamala, about 14 km away. This is home for the Nilgiri Tahrs, the endangered mountain ungulates. No traveller is known to have returned disappointed from here as at least a pair of these mountain goats can be spotted at any time of the year.
Sivaswamy asks me to stay for another day, but I have to return. I know I will be back in the monsoon when the teakwood treetops would shine like silver and the glassy Thekkady lake would become wild. I will sit for hours and hours again by the Sita Devi lake, with or without an umbrella, listening to the pitter-patters, the frog’s song and the cricket screech.
Getting there
It is believed that Sita, the wife of Lord Rama, once came down to play in the lake and from that time this place was known as Devikulam, which means the lake of goddess. Devikulam is located in the Idduki district of Kerala and is about 16 km from popular hill station Munnar and 150 km from Kochi. The best time tourists can visit this place is from September to May. The Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary is one of most popular places here. The Sita Devi lake is one of the favourite picnic spots among the local people and tourists. The other interesting part is the extensive tea plantation and a garden of spice.
By Air
The nearest airport is the Cochin international airport, located about 150 km away. It has regular flights to major cities in the country as well as abroad.
By Rail
Devikulam does not have its own railway station and the nearest major railway station is in Kochi, at about 150 km away. The other alternative is the Kottayam railway station (130 km). These railway stations are well-connected to the major cities in the country.
By Road
Devikulam is well-connected by roads to other main cities of Kerala. State transport and private bus services are regularly available from Kochi and Kottayam to Devikulam.
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